A dripping tap is one of the most common household annoyances—and one of the easiest plumbing problems to fix yourself. Learning how to repair a leaking tap will save water, cut your bills, and prevent long‑term damage to sinks and counters.

Below is a clear, step‑by‑step guide you can follow even if you’ve never done DIY plumbing before.


1. Identify Your Tap Type

How you fix a drip depends on the type of tap (faucet) you have.

The three most common types are:

  1. Compression tap (traditional washer tap)

    • Separate hot and cold handles.
    • You turn the handle several times to open/close.
    • Uses a rubber or fibre washer that often causes drips when worn.
  2. Ceramic disc tap (quarter‑turn tap)

    • Handle typically moves only a quarter turn (90°).
    • Feels very smooth and firm.
    • Uses a cartridge with ceramic discs, not a soft washer.
  3. Mixer / monobloc tap with cartridge

    • Single lever controlling both hot and cold.
    • Often found in modern kitchens and bathrooms.
    • Uses a cartridge which can wear out or get clogged with limescale.

If you’re unsure which you have, search images for
compression vs ceramic disc taps
and compare to yours.


2. Common Causes of a Dripping Tap

Understanding the cause helps you choose the right fix:

  • Worn washer (most common in compression taps)
  • Damaged O‑ring (rubber ring that seals around the spindle or spout)
  • Worn or cracked ceramic cartridge
  • Limescale or debris inside the tap body or cartridge
  • Loose parts (packing nut, tap body)
  • High water pressure or water hammer (less common, but can worsen leaks)

Most household drips are solved by replacing a washer or cartridge.


3. Tools and Materials You Will Need

Before you start, gather:

  • Adjustable spanner (adjustable wrench)
  • Set of screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
  • Allen (hex) keys (often needed for modern mixer taps)
  • Replacement washer and/or O‑rings (for compression taps)
  • Replacement ceramic cartridge (for quarter‑turn or single‑lever taps)
  • Plumber’s / PTFE tape (for threaded joints if needed)
  • Small container or tray (to hold screws and parts)
  • Cleaning cloth and descaler (for limescale)
  • Optional: penetrating oil (if parts are stiff or seized)

You can find most of these at local hardware stores or large chains like
Home Depot or
B&Q.


4. Safety First: Turn Off the Water Supply

Never work on a tap with live water pressure.

  1. Locate the isolation valves under the sink:

    • Small valves on the pipes leading to the tap.
    • Turn each one 90° clockwise with a screwdriver or by hand.
  2. If there are no isolation valves, turn off the main stopcock:

    • Often under the kitchen sink or near where the water main enters your home.
    • Turn clockwise until it stops.
  3. Open the tap fully:

    • This relieves pressure and drains remaining water.

Check that water has fully stopped before you begin dismantling.


5. How to Fix a Dripping Compression Tap (Washer Type)

If your tap has separate hot and cold handles that turn several times, follow this.

Step 1: Remove Decorative Cap and Handle

  1. Look for a small cap on the top or side of the handle (may say H/C).
  2. Pry it off gently with a small flat screwdriver or knife.
  3. Unscrew the handle screw underneath.
  4. Lift the handle off the spindle. If stuck, gently wiggle it or use penetrating oil.

Step 2: Remove the Tap Head / Bonnet

  1. You’ll see a hex nut or shaped body under the handle.
  2. Use an adjustable spanner to loosen this nut anti‑clockwise.
  3. Carefully lift out the tap stem (also called the headwork).

Place small parts in a dish so you don’t lose anything.

Step 3: Replace the Washer

  1. At the bottom of the stem, you should see a rubber washer held by a small screw.
  2. Unscrew it and remove the worn washer.
  3. Take it to a hardware store to match the exact size and thickness, or buy a mixed tap washer set.
  4. Fit the new washer and tighten the screw (snug, not over‑tight).

If there’s an O‑ring around the stem body and it looks cracked or flattened, replace it as well.

Step 4: Reassemble the Tap

  1. Clean any sediment or limescale from:

    • Tap body
    • Threads
    • Seat where the washer seals
  2. Reinsert the tap stem into the body.

  3. Tighten the body nut with the spanner (firm but don’t over‑tighten).

  4. Refit the handle and screw.

  5. Push the decorative cap back on.

Step 5: Turn Water Back On and Test

  1. Turn the isolation valves or main stopcock back on slowly.
  2. Open and close the tap several times.
  3. Check for:
    • Drips from the spout
    • Leaks around the handle or under the sink

If the tap still drips, the seat inside might be worn. You may need a seat grinder or a seat insert—or consider replacing the tap entirely.


6. How to Fix a Dripping Ceramic Disc or Cartridge Tap

If your tap is quarter‑turn or has a single lever, it likely uses a cartridge.

Step 1: Remove Handle

  1. Look for a small grub screw:

    • For single‑lever taps: often underneath or behind the handle.
    • For quarter‑turn taps: under a decorative cap on top.
  2. Use the correct Allen key or screwdriver to remove the grub screw.

  3. Slide the handle off.

Step 2: Access the Cartridge

  1. Under the handle, you may find a decorative shroud or cover.
  2. This usually unscrews by hand (or with a cloth for grip).
  3. Beneath it, you’ll see the cartridge held by a large nut or screws.

Step 3: Remove and Inspect the Cartridge

  1. Use an adjustable spanner to loosen the retaining nut, or remove the screws.
  2. Gently lift out the cartridge.
  3. Check for:
    • Cracks
    • Worn or flattened rubber seals
    • Limescale build‑up

You can try soaking the cartridge in descaler to remove limescale, but if it’s worn or damaged, replacement is best.

Step 4: Buy the Correct Replacement Cartridge

Cartridges are not universal. To get the right one:

  • Take the old cartridge to a plumbing merchant or hardware store.
  • Or search online with your tap’s brand and model. Many brands have detailed parts lists on their sites, e.g.:

Match the height, diameter, spline shape, and number of teeth.

Step 5: Fit the New Cartridge

  1. Ensure the tap body is clean inside.
  2. Align the new cartridge correctly with the locating pins or tabs.
  3. Replace the retaining nut and tighten firmly (but do not overtighten).
  4. Refit the shroud, handle, and grub screw.

Step 6: Turn On Water and Test

  1. Turn water back on slowly.
  2. Operate the tap through its full range:
    • Hot to cold
    • Fully on and fully off
  3. Check for drips and leaks.

7. Fixing a Tap Dripping from the Base or Handle

If water leaks around the handle or from the base of the spout, the cause is usually O‑rings rather than washers.

For Leaks Around the Handle

  • On compression taps: replace the spindle O‑ring when you have the tap apart.
  • On mixer taps: there may be O‑rings beneath the decorative shroud or around the cartridge.

For Leaks at the Spout Base (Mixer Taps)

  1. Turn off the water supply.
  2. Remove the spout:
    • Often held by a small screw or clip at the back of the base.
  3. Slide the spout up and off.
  4. You will see one or more O‑rings on the spout.
  5. Remove and replace with identical new O‑rings, lubricated lightly with silicone grease.
  6. Refit the spout and test.

8. When a Dripping Tap Is Not Just a Tap Problem

If your tap keeps leaking even after you replace washers or cartridges, consider:

  • High mains pressure:
    • Constant dripping or spluttering may be a sign.
    • A plumber can install a pressure‑reducing valve.
  • Water hammer:
    • Loud banging in pipes when you turn taps off.
    • Can damage tap internals over time.
  • Corroded or damaged tap body:
    • If the seat or internal parts are badly pitted, replacing the entire tap is often cheaper.

For persistent problems, find a licensed plumber via services like
Checkatrade (UK) or
Angi (US).


9. How Fixing a Dripping Tap Saves Money and Water

Even a slow drip can waste litres of water per day. Over a year, that’s hundreds or thousands of litres, which:

  • Increases your water bill (if metered).
  • Adds unnecessary demand on local water resources.
  • Can cause staining or limescale in your sink and damage sealants.

Many water companies offer advice and free tools to save water, such as:

Fixing your tap is one of the simplest water‑saving actions you can take at home.


10. Preventing Future Drips

Once your tap is fixed, these habits will help keep it leak‑free:

  • Don’t overtighten handles when turning taps off; just firm enough to stop the flow.
  • Fit small strainers or filters on your supply if you have debris in the water.
  • Descale taps regularly if you live in a hard‑water area.
  • When taps become stiff, lubricate moving parts with proper silicone‑based grease during maintenance.
  • Consider quality branded taps and genuine spare parts for better longevity.

11. When to Repair vs Replace a Tap

Repair the tap if:

  • It’s otherwise in good condition.
  • Parts are easy to source.
  • Only the washer, O‑rings, or cartridge are faulty.

Replace the tap if:

  • The tap body is cracked, heavily corroded, or badly pitted.
  • Spares are unavailable or very expensive compared with a new unit.
  • You want a more water‑efficient or modern design.

When choosing a replacement, look for water‑efficient models (e.g. aerated or low‑flow taps) and check for local certifications such as WaterSense in the US or WRAS approval in the UK.


12. Quick Reference: Dripping Tap Troubleshooting Table

Symptom Likely Cause Typical Fix
Drip from spout, old style tap Worn washer Replace washer and inspect seat
Drip from spout, quarter‑turn tap Faulty ceramic cartridge Replace cartridge
Drip from spout, single lever tap Worn/blocked cartridge Clean or replace cartridge
Leak around handle Worn spindle O‑ring Replace O‑ring, re‑grease
Leak from base of spout (mixer) Worn spout O‑rings Replace O‑rings
Noise and repeated leaks High pressure / water hammer Ask plumber; consider pressure‑reducing valve

If you’d like, tell me:

  • What your tap looks like (separate handles or single lever), and
  • Where exactly it’s dripping (spout, base, or handle),

and I can walk you through a custom, tap‑specific repair sequence.